Making a Living Making Quilts: A Historical Perspective

Sunday, November 24, 2019

Tobacco Sack Stringers

Bet Rash and family, North Carolina

Women’s work and the Southern yeoman farmer’s story are two neglected areas of American history.
Jean Odom pointed out on our QuiltHistorySouth Facebook page a website at the University of North Carolina libraries---a great source of information about both.


Tobacco has always been a huge part of Southern farming and industry; in the early 20th century much loose tobacco was sold in small cotton pouches about 3 inches x 4, each tied with a short piece of string, a drawstring threaded through a gathered tube. At the end of the Great Depression in the late 1930s a billion bags a year were manufactured to hold loose tobacco. Three giant companies manufactured bags and sold them to the tobacco companies. 

Susan Nelson has tobacco bags in her lap

By 1939 Durham, North Carolina’s Golden Belt Manufacturing Company had machinery to insert the strings but the other two relied on hand labor. It was women’s work and it had gone on for quite a while.

Reidsville, North Carolina’s Chase Bag and Richmond, Virginia’s Millhiser Bag Company used similar systems to put out the work, hiring a bag agent in communities to manage the work distribution, payment and return. Communities black and white relied on the at-home work to make ends barely meet.

Jesse Lee Shepherd Family

Jesse Lee Shepherd was a young man who ran a small store in Reddis River, North Carolina. He farmed and worked about half time in a government program. With a wife and three children he added to his income as a bag agent, distributing work to be done through the store and trading store goods to the women workers when they returned the bags. Other agents paid in cash. Website records tell us how much the women earned.

Alice Dickman, Virginia

Times were tough and the bag agents often had more requests for work than they could fill. The agent
in Leakesville, North Carolina figured there was a stringer in every household in his community. The work was tailored for women, repetitive hand work requiring dexterity (and good eyesight for close work) that could be done at home in intensive stretches, at social times, worked around housework and while caring for children. While it did not pay well, it paid and was often the difference between hunger and getting by in many households.

The woman on the right cuts the yellow string.

In 1939 bag stringing caught the attention of the National Labor Relations Board, concerned that no bag stringer was making the minimum wage. “Not long after the Fair Labor Standards Act was passed, the Virginia-Carolina Service Corporation, based in Richmond, began lobbying for an amendment to the act that would exempt home workers. The Service Corporation commissioned a report to argue for the vital importance of the income earned from tobacco bag stringing by many families in Virginia and North Carolina. The authors of the report solicited and published testimony from agents who distributed the bags and from local government officials.”

Bessie Holsbrook's family holding bags

Rather than feeling exploited, the women stringers protested losing their work. The website records economic information about each family and how the work benefited them. Dozens and dozens of families were interviewed and photographed inside and outside their homes.

Mrs. Leacey Royall
Wall paper of magazine pages was decorative and somewhat insulating. 

The photos are a remarkable record of the people of Virginia and North Carolina 80 years ago, their rural cabin homes, some new or well kept, others run down and rather miserable.


Go to the site and the list of workers towards the top on the right."The Workers."

Choose any woman and get a little insight into our poorly understood history. Those who look to a
nostalgic rural past for a sweet view of a simpler life might use these short stories as a cautionary tale. Several are sad stories of true American poverty before universal public education, Social Security and Medicare. Such sophisticated items as a pair of reading glasses seem unobtainable.

Gertrude Maynard's Family

The women workers were dependent on husbands, unemployed, under-employed and in particularly tough situations, absent through death or divorce. Yet the short biographies are inspiring, telling us a lot about the universality of being female and how enjoyable repetitive handwork can be.

Mrs. Howard Kirkman

Here's our QuiltHistorySouth Facebook page:



Sunday, November 17, 2019

Buying Tops: A Long Term Partnership

Quilt pieced by unknown Arkansas woman,
quilted by Alba Loulee Spires Ward (1905-1983)

A man brought this quilt in to be documented in the Oregon project last year. Alba Ward, Matthew's grandmother, was born in Damascus, Arkansas. When five her family moved to Plummerville, Arkansas. Grandmother remained friends with an African-American girl from Damascus (her name unknown). About 1930 Alba, her husband and two-year old Maxene moved to the northwest to work in the apple orchards, according to Maxene's obituary. Censuses find them in Washington, Idaho and eventually in Oregon.

Matthew recalled his grandparents drove home to Arkansas annually, buying quilt tops from the unnamed friend "for about $40 each."  Alba then quilted the tops. The unnamed friend was a domestic worker in Damascus and the family recalled that she was "blind"---visually impaired to some degree.


Some of the fabric is printed; the documenters noted a double pink print and indicated recycled tobacco sacks had been used. The pattern with its curved handles was a popular design. Perhaps the quiltmaker's inspiration was the Ladies Art Company pattern "Tulip in Vase." 



Matthew recalled that Alba's daughter, his mother Maxene Ward Stringer (1928-2015), had about 60 quilts. He inherited six, which he brought to be recorded. The quilt at the top of the page looks to be the oldest, perhaps one of the first the women cooperated on, pieced in the 1920s.


Mid-20th-century


This one also looks to have been pieced for fabrics from
the 1940-1960 years.

Alba gave it to Matthew as a birthday present in 1975

There were three diamond stars---this one perhaps pieced in the 1960-1980's


He had two of these red sashed stars, both with polyester fabrics,
so we'd guess 1965-1980. In all three stars the piecer solved the quilt size
problem by using half blocks along the edge.

Here's a link to the first quilt:
http://www.quiltindex.org/fulldisplay.php?kid=6A-FD-5E9

Saturday, November 2, 2019

Sewing for Money in Yadkin County


Mary Jane “Jennie” Newsom Pilcher (1860-1957) lived much of her life in Yadkin County, North Carolina in the Piedmont region of the state. She lived a very long life, born the month that Abraham Lincoln was first elected President and dying during the Eisenhower administration when she was 97 years old.

The North Carolina quilt project recorded the star quilt above, a classic example of Southern Appalachian quilt style popular in the years 1880-1930 or so with its bold, solid color fabrics and triple strip sashing. The quilt owner who brought the quilt in for documentation had inherited it from her Uncle John Wesley Doub and she also passed on the family story that her Uncle, a bachelor, had Jennie Pilcher make quilts for him. Jennie was apparently a professional quiltmaker.

Baltimore United Methodist Church where all these neighbors gathered

Both Jennie and John Doub are buried in the Baltimore United Methodist Church cemetery in East Bend, a small town northwest of Winston Salem. The project saw other quilts from the Baltimore community in East Bend, two from the Doub family.

Howard Newton Doub (1914 - 1974) with 
two of his sisters Irene and Ruth about 1919.

In 1935 the Doub family and Jennie Pilcher made a quilt for Leona Hutchens Doub's eldest son Howard Newton Doub who turned 21 that year.

Yadkin County quilters carried a taste for triple strip sashing
well into the mid- 20th century. The style is a bit old-fashioned for the mid-1930s.

The Quilt Index file on the Bear's Paw quilt tells us that the woman who brought the quilt in for photography recalled it was a joint project by Julie Doub Speas, Nancy Doub, Jenny Pilcher & other neighbors.
http://www.quiltindex.org/fulldisplay.php?kid=4B-82-975


Family photo from Find A Grave, looks perhaps 1930
or a little earlier

We can guess that Howard's mother Leona is the woman standing at left, about 40 when this photo of five generations was taken. She probably had a had a hand in her son's quilt. Leona Velma Hutchens Doub (1893-1993) lived to be 100 years old...


...and continued making quilts. The family also brought this quilt of hers they believed to have been made in 1972.

The other standing woman in the photo above may be Leona's mother Ruth Permelia Williams Hutchens (1871-1943) who would be about 60 years old in the photo. A memoir of  Permelia at Find-A-Grave tells us she and her daughters sewed tobacco sacks as piece work during the 1930s. The Morse & Wade Sack Factory in East Bend sent unfinished sacks in cardboard boxes to women in the area who would stitch the seams. The sack company then sold them to the tobacco companies in Winston-Salem.

R. J. Reynolds tobacco sack from Winston Salem

There were a LOT of tobacco sacks out there and apparently the system was that local women sewed the seams (and probably inserted the string) as home workers.